Skye views add drama to autumn forest walk

Published: 16:00, 03 November 2024

ACTIVE OUTDOORS: John Davidson heads west to explore a wonderful woodland walk that offers a glimpse to the dramatic Cuillin mountains

View across the Skye Bridge to the Cuillin.

The changing colours of autumn mean it’s the perfect time to enjoy a forest walk, and with spectacular Skye views added into the equation, this route is a fine choice.

Starting at the historic Balmacara Square, it uses the excellent network of tracks and paths that begin below Sgùrr Mòr and extend for miles towards Plockton on the northern edge of the Lochalsh peninsula.

The small hamlet here developed in the 18th century on the site of an old cattle gathering stance. It lies on the old drovers’ route to Crieff and Falkirk and was part of the main route from Skye until the 1970s when the bypass was built as part of an A87 upgrade.

Much of the area is now under the care of the National Trust for Scotland, which is working with the community to create a number of new crofts as well as running a small interpretation centre with a nearby café and gallery.

A village green has been re-created around the old millpond, and there’s a good amount of free parking to make access to the walking and cycling trails straightforward.

To start the walk, turn right along the road that leads south from the square and cross the burn. At a wooden gate, turn left to follow a marker post for the Skye View Trail along a path that goes back towards the water before following the burn upstream.

A couple of horse chestnut trees delayed any progress on the walk as we all searched the ground for conkers. Finding one of those shiny, newly emerged seeds still brings a bit of autumnal joy, no matter how many decades we’ve collected them as they fall from the branches. Perhaps it’s the reliable continuity that contrasts with the chaos of much else we experience in our time on this planet.

The horse chestnut is a much-loved tree, but it is a non-native species that was introduced to the UK from Turkey in the late 16th century, since when it has become ingrained in our culture.

Finally getting moving, we followed the narrow path below the colourful leaves then up and away from the water as the route meandered and zigzagged through the trees, steeply in places, to reach a wide vehicle track on a sweeping corner.

Going left here, the route follows the track uphill briefly, ignoring an older track off to the right and instead continuing to the fingerpost sign ahead. There are a few options here, but our route takes the right turn, sticking to the blue Skye View Trail as it cuts across the hillside in front of an area of plantation forest.

John heads up the path leading away from the burn.

Around the corner, the paths splits, with the left fork heading further towards Kirkton and our route staying right to drop downhill to reach a series of mature beech trees.

These specimens provided plenty of scope for playing as the children climbed and gathered beech nuts contained within those soft and smooth cases. They also found a perfect “seat” on one of the low-hanging branches that swayed gently with their weight.

As we continued down the path the view ahead opened up, revealing a perfect line of sight down Kyle Rhea, framed by the hills of Sgurr na Coinnich on Skye to the right and Beinn a’ Chuirn above Letterfearn on the mainland to the left.

The “road” behind these hills was also the line of an old drove route, with cattle having to swim the narrows across Kyle Rhea to Glenelg. Today, a summer-only ferry takes visitors across the sea to Skye (and back) on this historic route to the island.

Related articles:

• Cuillin view is high point on walk at Plock of Kyle

• Glen Shiel Corbett of Sgurr Mhic Bharraich offers spectacular high point on west coast

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The Munro of Beinn Sgritheall is located on the Glenelg peninsula and is usually accessed from close to the road-end at Arnisdale, where a steep climb leads up to a scree slope that gives access to the summit.

We continued our walk downhill through a cleared area of forest, crossing straight over an old track to stick to the marked path, which weaved its way through crags and heather.

A viewpoint marked on the larger-scale map offers a fine vantage point, with the rugged Cuillin mountain range visible beyond the Skye Bridge. Cloud touched the tops today but most of the ridgeline could be seen clearly enough, which is not something you can say every day!

Further down, a track merges from the left – the continuation of the possible extension of the walk via Kirkton. Keep right here on the blue route as it heads north-west towards the village.

The views to Skye stay with you as you walk downhill along this stretch, eventually heading between two walls that lead down to the road. A shorter option is simply to turn right along the road here to return directly to the square, but we didn’t mention that option to the children as we crossed straight over and followed a path downhill.

The marked route here continues to head over a pedestrian bridge and loop around the former Balmacara campsite – which still has functioning water taps dotted about the area – before returning to the road.

In fact, there are plans afoot to reopen the campsite. Balmacara Community Trust had its application for a Community Asset Transfer for the land sale from Forestry and Land Scotland approved this summer, and is now working on a funding package.

It has teamed up with the operator of the nearby campsite at Reraig to form a sustainable business plan that will see the site remain accessible and managed to benefit the community and wildlife. There will also be public toilets, an outdoor learning area and a community events space at the site.

It sounds like it will add a new and exciting chapter to the history of this peaceful and scenic spot, one that I intend to return to so that I can explore deeper into the area.